DIY: Saw Horses

Intro

I recently managed to get a mitre saw and a sander on eBay at a great price of £30 for the pair. The only issue I've got with the mitre saw is that it doesn't have a work stand / workbench. When faced with a problem, don't complain - solve it, so let's make one!

A dedicated workbench is fundamental to any workshop, but right now I'm in rented accommodation and the garage is very full with​ all of our stuff, as a result I need something compact. My idea is that I will make a pair of saw horses​ that will support a hardwood top that I can use as a workbench to support the mitre saw. I believe that making these is a good investment because long term they can be used to support work in the future even after I've built a workbench, so it's not like it will only have a short useful life.

Design

I've got very little in the way of tools so I need a simple and straight forward design. I have been watching Better Homes & Gardens recently (which I think is great to see affordable home improvement ideas as a general tip) but one video in particular caught my eye. It is misleadingly called "everything you need to know about saws" but it's a brief overview on building your own saw horses - watch it here.

This video became the inspiration to building my own.

Now I'm not experienced at DIY, it's not like I could just start sawing wood and eventually the product would appear - so I like to put a bit of effort up front in the planning and designing stages.

So step 1 was to fire up SketchUp. For those of you who haven't heard about SketchUp, it's a fantastic free modelling tool - it's straightforward and very powerful, I highly recommend it. Read up more about it here.

So I got to drawing the design based on what I could see in the YouTube video that I am using for inspiration, it didn't take long before I had a design.

When doing some research, I found that the angle to put the legs at was subject to a lot of opinion, with angles varying between 15 and 25 degrees. I chose 15 degrees in the end. A shallower angle means you'll need less wood, but it's theoretically less stable because the load you are supporting won't be spread out as much because the legs won't be angled out as far - practically I wouldn't worry about it - 15 was convenient for me.

Another area of opinion was height - now this was an area where I knew what I wanted. I'm 6'4" (or 193cm for those using new units) and I do have a sensitive back (I can typically do anything any normal person can do - but I'll be very achy and sore) as a result I wanted to set these at a height that suited me.

I chose that the top of the saw horses should be at 115 cm. This eliminates any bending, using tools like my mitre saw wouldn't require any bending as they would be at perfect operating height.

One last design feature, I wanted these saw horses to be easily stored away so making them folding so that they would collapse to save space was very important so the top of the saw horses would be hinged.

Putting all of these requirements together I came up with a design. Now the great thing about SketchUp is that it's more than just a sketch, I drew everything to scale: I knew the dimensions of the wood because of what was discussed in the video; I knew what height I wanted; and I knew the angles so the model in SketchUp matched exactly what the real product would be. So from this I could generate a cutting list and ultimately my raw materials list.

I went to Jackson's Timber to get the wood I required. It was amazing how quickly the lengths added up, in the end I needed:

• 10m of 4" x 2"
• 4m of 4" x 1" 
• 2m of 6" x 2"

I should say that originally I was going to get 8" x 2" for the top, but after talking to one of the guys at the shop he recommended me down to the 6" x 2" with the reason of weight. So it's definitely worth striking up a conversation with these guys - I learned a lot from them.

Because I have a compact car I had them cut the lengths down so that they would fit in the car - you can see all the wood I needed!

Lot's of wood

Step 1 - Making the legs

Time to get cracking, I got my cutting list from the model and got to work. I had to recruit my wife, Charlotte, to help because the lengths were so long and heavy that they needed support while I was cutting - ironically a saw horse would do the job!

First thing was to make the legs as everything is built from them.  I had chosen a 15 degree angle for my saw horses, so the first cut was really simple: make a 15 degree cut that would waste as little material as possible. So first cut was taking the corner off the end of the 4" x 2" with a 15 degree cut. 

First cut

Then I would measure back the length I needed, in this case 1.5m.  Then I had to make a parallel cut. From now on, I just used this first leg as a template to make the rest.  I used an off cut so that I could cut the end of the second leg so that it would be angled too.

It was then a case of repeating another 3 times so that I had all four sets of legs.

Step 2 - Making the top

The 6" x 2" wood was used to set the width of the saw horse. I chose to use 75cm.  This was based on the fact that the 6" x 2" material also came in 1.5m length so cutting it straight in half was very easy.

Step 3 - Cross supports

This is a simple job of cutting the 4" x 1" down to the length I want, which will be the width of the saw horse. The standard width is 900 mm. It was at this point my wife suggested that because I had the 6" x 2" pre-cut into two 1.5m lengths that we could save the second piece by just cutting one of them in half again.

The cross supports go between each "vee" of legs and are the same length as the top support, this is cut from 4" x 1"

Now that all the cutting is done, the full set of material is : 4 x cross pieces; 2 x tops; 8 x legs.

Step 4 - Hinges

Next I wanted to attach the hinges. I'm using spruce, a hardwood, I wanted to play things safe and pre-drill the holes for the hinges.

Hinges will be put for each pair of legs, this will allow the saw horses to "collapse" and take up much less space when in storage.  The hinges are placed on the wood, the holes marked and then pre-drilled.

Using the included screws they are then screwed into place firmly. The process is repeated for the mating leg.

Step 5 - Notching the tops

Because of the hinge design I had chosen, I had to notch the top piece so that it would sit flat on the top of the legs. I did this with a drill.

Step 6 - Cross Supports

The cross supports are now prepared by pre-drilling them. I measured in half the thickness of the legs (I'm using 2" thick legs so I measured in 1") marked and then drilled. I then used the first pre-drilled piece of wood as a template to save marking up every piece - I just drilled through the holes I had already made. This was repeated for all the cross braces.
I decided that I wanted the cross-supports at a third of the way up from the ground. So I measured this point, and marked it across the leg so that I could easily line up the top of the cross brace. Using the holes in the cross brace, and the line I had already drawn, I could then make a small pre-drill into the leg by going through the cross brace to give me a template. Then i finished off the pre-drill now that I knew where the holes would be.

The cross-supports were now populated with all their screws.

I found it easiest to lay the legs on the floor and then screw the cross braces down into them then I would secure the other side - that's one side of the saw horses made!

I did try doing this with the horses stood up - don't bother, it's just so difficult! At least with them laying down you can push into the ground.

Step 7 - Secure the tops

To secure the saw horse tops, I knew I wanted to drill down through the top into the legs. So I measured the thickness of the wood, then measured in half of this and scored a line - now I know my screws need to be somewhere along that line - I then worked out where 1/3rd and 2/3rds along this line is - this is where my screws would be.

So I marked these points and pre-drilled down through the top and into the leg and then screwed the top in to place.

This was then repeated for the other end.

Step 8 - Admire! The job is done!

Having the SketchUp model was a massive help to me, I didn't (and still don't) have the self-confidence to know that cuts would work out, so I trusted the numbers rather than my gut feeling and it worked!

Job done!

To support this blog article, I've also created a video on YouTube which shows you the detail of the steps that I went through to make these saw horses. You may find this useful:

Also the SketchUp CAD file that I used for my design is available here.

DIY: Spices shelf

Background

I'm sure that this is a problem that anyone who has a small house will understand. The cupboard that holds all of our fundamental ingredients such as herbs and spices is absolutely crammed full. The problem is a lack of space, but it isn't a lack of volume.

The jars that spices come in are about 10-12 cm tall but there is a great void of space that is unusable. This blog article is about how I came up with a solution to make that volume usable again.

So much lost volume above the spice jars

Solution time

Having a little mosey around my garage I found a piece of 15 mm MDF that I thought would be the perfect size for a shelf.

My initial idea was to screw three batons into the walls of the cupboard but Charlotte refused to allow me to cause 'damage'to the cupboard, so whatever I did would have to be free standing.

I marked up the board to give me the shelf top plus two sides to support it.

Material is marked up, ready to be cut with the jigsaw

To ensure that when I screwed the top to the two sides the address would go into the middle, I marked the width of the support off.

Marking the material thickness

I pre-drilled the holes so that I knew they would cause the screw's to be in the right place.

The holes were pre-drilled before screwing

Finally I assembled the pieces together and jobs done!

Assembled unit

Even though this is one of my simpler projects, I still had that twang of excitement to see how it would turn out. So pulling everything out of the cupboard to get the shelf in and then fill it back up was done eagerly!

The result

Moving those herb and spice jars onto the shelf has made that space that usable and as result has freed up a massive area for other storage (free at the moment).

Jobs' a good 'un!

Bank Holiday Weekend Project : Sorting out the cupboard (Part 3)

Background

So with the 2015 August bank holiday weekend, I decided to start doing some DIY by ripping out the existing shelving. The very first thing I did was to make some custom shelves to fit in an odd-shaped corner to be used for storing shoes (read about that here), the next part of my project was to then create a micro-cupboard just for the electric meters (read about that here). The final part of my project was to install some shelving at the top of the cupboard - and that is what I will be talking about in today's blog post.

Apologies that this blog doesn't have the usual number of pictures that I usually put up: I was very much time limited.

The Plan

Of course the first thing I did was to review the SketchUp model that I had made. It's been very useful for visualising an idea, but certainly in the case of manufacturing the electric meter cupboard, it doesn't capture complexity, thankfully in this case, I think this will be simple as I intend to support and install the shelves in the same way as I did for the shoe-shelves.

The Parts

Off to B&Q to buy:

• Four off - 15 x 15 x 900 mm pine batons (only required two in the end)
• One off - 1220 x 606 x 12 mm MDF

Despite the required dimension according to the model, i decided that by cutting the MDF in half length ways would mean that i have a true square cut for the front edge and maximise the material use.

Cutting down the large sheet of 12mm MDF to the required dimensions.

The next job was to prepare the supports. I decided to cut two 20 cm pieces and one 50 cm piece from each baton. Then, to make my life easier when assembling in the cupboard, I pre drilled a 3 mm hole every 5-6 cm in every baton. To try and make my work a bit neater, I then used a 15 mm drill bit to bore out the top few millimetres to enable me to counter sink each screw.

To install the batons I had a little dilemma. The only robust reference point in this cupboard was the 10-inch piece that I put around the back and right hand side that is used to support the coat hooks and coat rail.

I set the first batons (lower ones in the picture below) 4cm up from the wooden border, this would allow plenty of room for taking things on and off the coat rail. From there the next shelf up was set 30cm up.

Pinewood batons up as support

With the supports in place, I brought in the shelves that I had already made to do a dry fitting. I I had to do a reasonable amount of sanding down on the left edge (as looking in the picture above) because that wall wasn't square before the shelves would fit. 30 minutes of sanding later, I had two fitted shelves.

Shelves now installed

I didn't get to enjoy the shelves being fitted for long before it was all taken out for an initial painting - just plain white emulsion paint for this first coat.

A few hours in the sunshine which we were blessed with today and the paint was dry enough to let me install the shelves. Just as I was putting the shelves in I was struck by the thought that when I first installed the shelves it was a tight fit and that with the addition of paint they may not fit back into place. But I was relieved that the shelves actually went in easier.

Shelves installed, with baskets for storage

The final touch is some wicker baskets that we found in B&Q, actually part of a rack, compared to similar baskets that I had found, these were a significant improvement despite being £20 for the four because the baskets have a metal wire frame in them which greatly improves their durability.

Despite hoping to do all of this over the August 2015 bank holiday weekend, it took considerably more. Three weekends over a month-and-a-half and a plethora of trips to B&Q!

By the end of my project I had created a shoe rack with a unique design to fit inside an awkward place. Then i made a small cupboard to conceal and protect the electricity metres and fuse box. The final step was covered in this blog entry where i made some more shelving to finish the cupboard renovations off completely.

By the end of this project I had spent nearly £200 although a significant chunk is 'invested' in tools such as the jigsaw, PPE (Personal Protection Equipment), paint and clamps. Excluding those costs my costs were:

• 2 off sheets of 12mm thick MDF @ £11.24 ea
• 1 off sheet of 6mm thick MDF @ £8.17 ea
• 8 off 15 mm pine batons@ £1.74 ea
• 1 pair of magnetic catches @ £2.28 ea
• 2 off Butt Hinges @ £1.42 ea
• A set of wicker baskets @ £20.00 ea
• 1 off 4' rail @ £7.98 ea
• 1 pair of rail sockets @ £3.48 ea

Grand Total : £81.15

Bank Holiday Weekend Project : Sorting out the cupboard (Part 2)

In my previous article I had stripped out a cupboard at the front of my house next to the front door because it didn't provide the storage capacity I was required, nor did it look particularly good.

Shelves installed and coated with two layers of paint

In this article I will be documenting the build of a shielding / cupboard for the electricity meter and consumer unit(s). Prior to this re-design of the cupboard I had what felt like enough shoes for the third-world in my cupboard and occasionally they would flip a circuit breaker when thrown in. So I felt something neat to tidy it up was needed.

Project : hide this monstrosity

This part of the project took a lot of thinking about how I'd actually achieve the effect of boxing off the electricity meter, in SketchUp it took about 10 clicks to create the box, in practice I had to work out how I would physically build a robust structure. I decided I would use more of my 12x12 mm2 pine batons as a framework and 6 mm MDF as the walls.

I started with what would be the top, it was an easy start: a square cut. But coming back to the cupboard I quickly discovered the problems when master craftsmen are not employed to do tasks, the walls are not square!

The MDF sheet is from the corner of the larger sheet, I KNOW that's square!

Approximately 7 mm sliver to be removed

 A quick jigsaw cut later and it was time for a test fit.

That's a hell of a lot better.

Next I wanted to make the framework to support the other walls. I decided to just follow the outlook of the chipboard backing that the meters are mounted to, so I only need two vertices's.

Supporting batons installed

To provide support for the top face, I installed a baton along the front edge. The ends were cut with a simple rabbet joint.

The next step was to put the side face on. Again fairly straightforward, with the exception of cutting out some material to allow for the skirting board.

Mark up for the skirting board

Skirting board notch and baton.

Time for a test fit so far.

Top and side installed

The next step was to put the front on. I decided I wanted doors on so that I would be able to easily get in each month when I wanted to take a meter reading. To keep the doors neat I decided to use magnets to keep the doors closed and out of the way.

Magnetic door closers

With the door magnets installed, I could install the matching pair on the inside of the door.

First door installed

The second door was then installed, the hinges caused a displacement that wasn't factored in my initial measurements, you can see that I need to cut down the width of the doors slightly.

Doors are a touch too big

Now that everything fits together, its time to disassemble and paint. I wanted to make sure that the hinges and the magnets stayed free of paint so I covered those with masking tape.

Ready for painting

12 hours later the paint was dry ... no I didn't sit there watching it! So I assembled all the bits once again to get it fitted into the cupboard. The final result is below. You can see I clearly missed bits during the painting, but it will be getting at least two more coats yet. My thoughts? Norm won't be offering me honorary membership into the Master Craftsman's Guild, but its certainly practical and, in my opinion, a damn sight better than what was originally there!

Final result!

Bank Holiday Weekend Project : Sorting out the cupboard (Part 1)

As men we have several ... ... expectations on us. Drink Beer, overtly eye-up other women and like football. Well I fail admirably on (1) and (3) but I think I make up for it by doing some DIY Actually on August Bank Holiday weekend!

The project is quite simple actually, which is good since although I definitely enjoy DIY, I've not done that much of it actually, since I left home especially not at eighteen to go to college.

So the plan is to rip out the awfully done shelves and rail, including the sliding doors that are currently in the cupboard next to my front door. Then I want to install nice new shelving as you can see by the picture below. Finally, boxing off the electric meter to prevent the switches getting interfered with by incoming shoes is the load on the plan.

Cupboard design in SketchUp

Part Zero

There is of course the step before doing anything, getting what you need, so its off to B & Q (I get a 10% discount there - not that really stems how expensive they are in the first place) to stock up since I've not really done any of my own DIY. I do not have anything, even the basics, so it was a big shop: screws (ended up buying a box of 1200 in a variety of sizes), Wood Glue, sheets of MDF (12mm and 6mm 606 x 1220 sheets), a jigsaw (Bosch) with blades, batons of planed pine (12mm square, approx 1m long).

And the best bit .. the bill - approximately £ 100!

Part one

The shelves to the left are intended to hold shoes as a neat way to store and hide them effeciently with the space. Initially I had to work out the best way of cutting the material down on paper before taking actually to wood with the jigsaw.

I got six shelves out of the 12 mm sheet with enough material to make at least two more no problem if needed. Heading back inside to do a test fit I noticed did the doorframe wrapped around the inside of the cupboard wall too so had to take out a 15 mm deep notch to accomodate for that.

Notching for the doorframe

Next step was to decide at what height the shelves would go at this Took a little bit of thinking I got myself muddled up. Because with the simple division ... I've got a 1.2 m tall area for the shelving, and I want 6 shelves, but obviously there will not be a shelf at the top of the 1.2 m Region! To knock off a bit then do the division. Simpleton moment over the wall got marked up.

Shelf locations marked up - triple checked!

I then cut my batons of pine strips down into 12, 6 at 130mm and another 6 at 120mm. Pre-drilling with a 4 mm drill bit and then a screw initialised. The space I had where I would be attaching these batons to the wall is very confined, so I would not be able to apply large amounts of pressure because I would not be able to get myself into a position to achieve the leverage, that's why I pre-drilled the pine batons first to reduce the resistance did I would be facing.

Batons mounted 

With all 12 batons secured, the shelves went in.

Initial fitting

The next step was to tidy up the shelves: the square corner just Looked to offensive to the eye (let alone being practical) so I used a dinner plate to trace around it.

Rounding marked up and ready to cut

At this point I'm really starting to love my jigsaw and getting the hang of it so I managed to cut pretty well to plan.

Jigsaw-ed cut, now a last swipe with some sandpaper

I think the rounding off made a massive difference - I think that's far more aesthetically pleasing to the eye!

Final installation

All that remains is for my girlfriend to paint the shelves and then the task is done! Next I'll be tackling the electric box ...

DIY: Garage tidying

Introduction

So having just got back from Malta, I unpacked my bags and I had ALL, seriously ALL the dive gear scattered across my living room. Unfortunately it couldn't stay like that, as much as my life revolves around diving I do need it out the way so I can do other things like watch TV, iron and generally live.

With my dive gear in the house that meant that the garage was half empty - an ideal time to tidy it up. Armed with a claw hammer I started going around my garage pulling out all the random rusty nails hammered in everywhere. With a small pile of nails it was time to get to work.

The result

The dream was to get all my dive gear neatly hung up so that I could get at it more easily and I thought it would probably do the gear a favour too. So this is what I managed:

Front to back

Back to front

Whilst doing all of this, I went through every box of dive gear and I made a startling discovery. When I first got into tech diving, all the gear needs bolt-snaps on it in some form, so every time I went diving I would buy one. Eventually I just got in the habit of buying them and then this happens:

I managed to find a total of 9, that's NINE bolt snaps that are completely surplus to requirements!!! I also then found another one in my dry suit pocket too - so that's 10 bolt-snaps!! No wonder I'm skint - at about £10 each that's about  £100 tied up in stainless steel right there!!